Christophe Lemaire Fails Hermes’ with last Paris Week Show!

So the Fashionites of the world may be afraid to say it, but in the interest of journalistic integrity and fashion sanity, it must be said that the Hermes’ Spring collection shown today was a dismal failure and a sad end to an otherwise bright run Christophe Lemaire enjoyed the last 4 years at Hermes’. Staged at the l’Orangerie Férou in Paris’ beautiful Luxembourg Gardens, the runway was a bed of desert sand, its backdrop a large Hermès orange curtain. Just before the show started, men in white coveralls brushed the floor to create a perfectly smooth surface. Such meticulous attention to detail extended to the looks, from the way Lemaire combined different exotic skins for tailored jackets to a refined lace-and-eyelet pattern on a charming white dress. But the runway covered in sand made the already awkwardly walking models walk in a stinted manner. Most were actually pretty healthy looking, except for one who was in serious need of a large meal… but that’s par for the course in that world unfortunately and we put up with it. It was said that Lemaire “confidently honed in on all the elements that have defined his tenure at the house” — as in calmly sophisticated, luxurious clothes. I assume they mean calmly, as in no color or interesting vibe at all, for example:

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 MTI0OTU2MzY3MDc2MjU3NzYyMTI0OTU2MzY2ODA3ODIyMzA2MTI0OTU2MzY2ODA3Nzk5MDU4
MTI0OTU2MzY2ODA3ODY0NTk0MTI0OTU2MzY3MzQ0NjcxMTk4MTI0OTU2MzY3MDc2Mzg4ODM0
Based on the examples above, it seems Lemaire has no desire to show off the female body whatsoever. A woman could pass up Hermes altogether and go to J. Jill, Chicos or any mainstream retailer to cover herself up in a menagerie of neutrals for a fraction of the price.
This dress screams department store plain Jane:
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And what the hell is this? Buttoned up, slouchy, unflattering, shows no thigh, no cleavage?
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Again, totally covered up, slouchy, nondescript waist, unfeminine:
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 So can you just hear the BS in the crowd in Gay Paris today, it’s so wonderful, so beautiful, and do you really think any of those women are going to wear these hideous, slouchy patterned dresses? No, they’re not. This is the house that sells $45,000 purses people. I think they can do better than this.
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MTI0OTU2MzY3ODgxNjQ0Njc1MTI0OTU2MzY3NjEzMDc4MTQ3
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In stark contrast to the hot leather touches and Scottish criss cross tie ups in Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2015 line launched today, this “tartan” piece below is uninspired, slouchy and boring:
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 This dress and the color of it, there are no words and her forehead…what is the stylist thinking?
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Please feed this girl…fast, but at least this outfit is almost feminine and kind of pink:
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 This whole outfit below cements my thinking that Lemaire simply needs to be a menswear designer and has no idea how to dress a woman, period.
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 and these:
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 The best of the worst:

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MTI0OTU2MzY4MTQ5OTc3NTY2MTI0OTU2MzY3MzQ0ODAyMjcwMTI0OTU2MzY3ODgxNTUzOTMw

MTI0OTU2MzY3NjEzMTE4NDc0MTI0OTU2MzY3ODgxNTc5MTM5MTI0OTU2MzY3NjEzMjA5MjE5After four weeks of collections with abundant Seventies riffs, this lineup accomplished a refreshing antidote that almost felt like a palate cleanser at the end of the spring season. Reflecting the set’s theme, there was a hint of Berber chic in the collection. Several colors were sunburnt, as if ripened in the desert; elegant jackets, coats and dresses featured a sash detail that was stylishly tossed over one shoulder to add a subtle tribal touch. Lemaire’s last look was the ultimate homage to the brand: a breezy summer halter dress in the color of the house’s iconic box. On the heels of Lemaire’s last show, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, an alum of Céline and The Row, is taking over the women’s ready-to-wear from Lemaire. I hope and we all should hope there will be exciting things to come for Hermes. Love, HauteAngel

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